‘A paroxysm of disposability’: France’s distaste for Shein’s ultra-fast fashion

In the heart of Dijon this summer, the buzz around Shein's pop-up shop was anything but welcoming. Just hours before the doors were set to open, graffiti scrawled in bold French letters declared “Shein kills” alongside accusations of exploitation, forced labor, slavery, and pollution. It was a stark visual protest against the ultra-fast fashion giant, capturing the raw frustration bubbling up in France.

Yet, despite this fervent backlash, Shein's grip on French consumers remains unshakable. A petition calling for a nationwide ban on the brand has amassed over 270,000 signatures, driven by concerns over its environmental toll and questionable labor ethics. Critics argue that Shein's model—churning out thousands of new styles daily at rock-bottom prices—fuels a 'paroxysm of disposability,' where clothes are worn once or twice and then discarded, overwhelming landfills and exploiting workers in supply chains often shrouded in secrecy.

France has long prided itself on sustainable fashion and workers' rights, with laws like the 2020 anti-waste legislation aiming to curb overproduction. Shein, however, seems to operate in a parallel universe. The Chinese-founded company, valued at billions, has faced global scrutiny, including fines for failing to declare imported goods and lawsuits over intellectual property theft. In Europe, regulators are circling: the EU's upcoming digital services rules could force Shein to reveal more about its algorithms that prioritize viral trends over ethics.

For everyday shoppers like 22-year-old Parisian student Marie, the appeal is hard to ignore. “It's cheap and trendy—I can afford to experiment with looks that change every week,” she admits, scrolling through the app during a lunch break. But even as sales soar—Shein reported over €2 billion in European revenue last year—activists are pushing back harder. Groups like the French Collective Against Fast Fashion have organized boycotts and educational campaigns, highlighting how Shein's carbon footprint rivals that of major airlines.

What does this mean for the future? As France weighs tougher import taxes on low-cost imports, Shein might have to adapt or face real barriers. For now, the tension between consumer desire and moral outrage paints a divided picture: a nation grappling with the seductive pull of affordability against the urgent call for a more responsible wardrobe. Read the full story on The Guardian.